Desolation Sound, British Columbia

Friday, May 25th - Departure Day – In high spirits, at 9:30, we leave Victoria Harbor behind and start our 3-day trek to Desolation Sound. We planned to spend our first night in a bay with the romantic name of Pirates' Cove. It, however, proves to be more ominous as Bill completes an intensinve study of all our charts and books. One of the sources contradicts the others indicating that the passage in may be too shallow for our 9’ draft. It’s an easy choice to decide that 5:00 in the evening on a descending tide is not the time to find out which guide is more accurate. We head to an alternate site, Plan B, with a narrow entrance compounded by a submered rock midway, but the entrance, at least, is deep enough. With the rock marked on both GPS chart plotters, we creep in to drop anchor. These chart/book discrepancies we occasionally unearth continue to drive home the point that we cannot rely on any one chart or book to give the whole picture. Bill really has his work cut out as he flips back and forth between all our resources, and we know it’s only going to get more difficult as we head further north where the area is less charted and detailed

This evening at dinner we decide that weather and current permitting we are going to push to reach the entrance to Desolation Sound tomorrow. It will make a 10 – 12 hour day, but Desolation Sound is where the fun and exploring begin – so, let’s go! Saturday, May 26th, dawns in all shades of grey and stays that way thoughout day. The soft coloring is really quite pretty with shading going from pearly white to velvety blue grey and deeper to steely gunmetal. We leave at 7:00 and drop anchor about 7:00 in Gorge Harbour not far from the entrance to Desolation Sound. As predicted, it was a long, dreary passage. The only marginal spot of interest for the day was a barge bizarrely and seemingly haphazardly loaded heading north to Alaska, we presumed. (Remember to double click to enlarge a photo. This one is worth it.) Shortly after anchoring, a light rain is heard on the cabin roof, but our spirits aren’t dampened. We are excited to be here.

Sue at the helm taking Avante thru The Gorge, a narrow steep sided opening into Gorge Bay. Note the sky and the clothing.

Avante at anchor Sunday morning, May 27th. What a difference a day makes! Blue skies and sun greet us.

The Gorge – our first taste of the narrow, steeply walled passages to be found in Desolation Sound.

After a relaxing morning in harbor we exit The Gorge. Once out, we encounter good wind, raise sail and cross the official entrance to Desolation Sound going a brisk 9 knots

In the late 1700’s when Vancouver sailed his ship, Discovery, into these waters, he entered a dark and dismal world. Though he sailed at approximately this same time of year, he encountered cold, rainy, murky days as he sailed thru an incomprehensible tangle of complex passages bordered by dark, densely wooded islands. His mood was further deepened by the overhanging cliffs, the dripping trees and the eerie silences punctuated by the sound of waterfalls heard thru the gloom. The shifting winds, conflicting tides and currents coupled with the fathomless depths so near to land depressed him greatly. He named the place Desolation Sound and was glad to be rid of it. We, instead, exalt in it. Our days dawn bright and sunny with each one warmer than the next. We’re awed by the beauty we see all around us. We’re delighted at the way a sharply pointed snow-covered peak suddenly appears above the dark green of pine-covered mountains. We crave the silences and solitude that oppressed Vancouver and are dismayed over seeing another boat in our chosen anchorages. We know for sure that we would never return here in the height of summer season knowing we would have to nose into crowded anchorages.

The only unpleasant sight we see is Red Tide. Though we all know about Red Tide, none of us had seen it in real life. This naturally occurring infestation looks like a manmade pollution. So, at least the good news is that it isn’t. Though its occurrence was spotty throughout the area, there was no missing it when it was there. The water would appear thick and heavy with the toxic mess






Monday, May 28th, we motor to Teakerne Arm to view the waterfall, Cassel Cascade. Bill backs the boat down the short deep channel right below the waterfall. It’s just like pictures you see of boats and waterfalls in this area!

We hike above the waterfalls to a lake where Judy decides to try the rope pull down to the lake. It’s a bit too cold for a dip just yet, but we can see what a popular and crowded place this would be in the summer.

The next day as we motor into a secluded cove we notice a Bald Eagle perched regally on top of a pine tree near the shore. Quietly we sit on deck watching him watching us. We are silenced by his presence and amazed that he stays with us all thru lunch. Shortly before we raise anchor, he spreads his wings and glides off. It is truly incredible. I’m amazed at the dark wing spread. Never had any of us been that close to such a creature.

Wednesday, May 30th, is our last day in Desolation Sound. We lunch in a cove off Susan Islets. It’s sunny and almost hot.. We’re into shorts and T-shirts. It’s warm enough that Bill, Judy and Warner decide it’s time to go for a swim. Not me. It’s got to be a lot warmer in that water for me. They may have called it a swim, but, from my viewpoint, it was a quick jump in followed by an explosive bellow of shock and an even quicker exit. “Refreshing”, they exclaimed. “Heart stopping”, I thought. Bill decides it’s a good time to test the weights he brought to use with his wet suit when/if he needs to check something out under the boat. The first time he tested the suit was in The Channel Islands on our sail north from San Diego to Seattle. He had forgotten about weights and bobbing around like a cork wasn’t going to get him under the boat or anywhere. With his new weights, he could now successfully check under the boat.

That evening we anchored in Prideaux Haven, a very popular anchorage because of the spectacular views. In the summer, boats are crowded in here many stern-tied to shore or rafted together. We have the place almost to ourselves. The view is fantastic. We eat dinner on deck and linger there enjoying the evening until 10:00 – in shirt sleeves and shorts. How fortunate can you be?






Judy and Warner – May 30, 2007
10:00 pm – Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound, British Columbia, Canada

Thursday, May 31st, we motor out of Desolation Sound and across to Campbell River. Again, the weather is beautiful. We are all hoping for another whale spotting, but, though that did not happen, we are treated to the sight of several Dali Porpoises leaping thru the water as they sped past the boat. Campbell River proves to be a well-appointed fishing and tourist town. The facilities for private boaters are great with a large grocery store conveniently located near the docks. There is even a Starbucks. Back to civilization we are! It’s been great having Judy and Warner with us on this first leg. With sadness we’ll say good bye to them tomorrow, but, with eagerness, tomorrow we will press on north to Alaska.

I’m closing this entry with a few pictures of the beauty of this area. Our timing here was beyond opportune. We were here before the season started and had the waters practically to ourselves. The weather was absolutely perfect. What more could one ask for?






Snow covered fortresses in the distance

The Helmswomen

An afternoon anchorage. (For Telluride folks: views from the Valley Floor if Global Warming continues)