Desolation Sound, British Columbia

Friday, May 25th - Departure Day – In high spirits, at 9:30, we leave Victoria Harbor behind and start our 3-day trek to Desolation Sound. We planned to spend our first night in a bay with the romantic name of Pirates' Cove. It, however, proves to be more ominous as Bill completes an intensinve study of all our charts and books. One of the sources contradicts the others indicating that the passage in may be too shallow for our 9’ draft. It’s an easy choice to decide that 5:00 in the evening on a descending tide is not the time to find out which guide is more accurate. We head to an alternate site, Plan B, with a narrow entrance compounded by a submered rock midway, but the entrance, at least, is deep enough. With the rock marked on both GPS chart plotters, we creep in to drop anchor. These chart/book discrepancies we occasionally unearth continue to drive home the point that we cannot rely on any one chart or book to give the whole picture. Bill really has his work cut out as he flips back and forth between all our resources, and we know it’s only going to get more difficult as we head further north where the area is less charted and detailed

This evening at dinner we decide that weather and current permitting we are going to push to reach the entrance to Desolation Sound tomorrow. It will make a 10 – 12 hour day, but Desolation Sound is where the fun and exploring begin – so, let’s go! Saturday, May 26th, dawns in all shades of grey and stays that way thoughout day. The soft coloring is really quite pretty with shading going from pearly white to velvety blue grey and deeper to steely gunmetal. We leave at 7:00 and drop anchor about 7:00 in Gorge Harbour not far from the entrance to Desolation Sound. As predicted, it was a long, dreary passage. The only marginal spot of interest for the day was a barge bizarrely and seemingly haphazardly loaded heading north to Alaska, we presumed. (Remember to double click to enlarge a photo. This one is worth it.) Shortly after anchoring, a light rain is heard on the cabin roof, but our spirits aren’t dampened. We are excited to be here.

Sue at the helm taking Avante thru The Gorge, a narrow steep sided opening into Gorge Bay. Note the sky and the clothing.

Avante at anchor Sunday morning, May 27th. What a difference a day makes! Blue skies and sun greet us.

The Gorge – our first taste of the narrow, steeply walled passages to be found in Desolation Sound.

After a relaxing morning in harbor we exit The Gorge. Once out, we encounter good wind, raise sail and cross the official entrance to Desolation Sound going a brisk 9 knots

In the late 1700’s when Vancouver sailed his ship, Discovery, into these waters, he entered a dark and dismal world. Though he sailed at approximately this same time of year, he encountered cold, rainy, murky days as he sailed thru an incomprehensible tangle of complex passages bordered by dark, densely wooded islands. His mood was further deepened by the overhanging cliffs, the dripping trees and the eerie silences punctuated by the sound of waterfalls heard thru the gloom. The shifting winds, conflicting tides and currents coupled with the fathomless depths so near to land depressed him greatly. He named the place Desolation Sound and was glad to be rid of it. We, instead, exalt in it. Our days dawn bright and sunny with each one warmer than the next. We’re awed by the beauty we see all around us. We’re delighted at the way a sharply pointed snow-covered peak suddenly appears above the dark green of pine-covered mountains. We crave the silences and solitude that oppressed Vancouver and are dismayed over seeing another boat in our chosen anchorages. We know for sure that we would never return here in the height of summer season knowing we would have to nose into crowded anchorages.

The only unpleasant sight we see is Red Tide. Though we all know about Red Tide, none of us had seen it in real life. This naturally occurring infestation looks like a manmade pollution. So, at least the good news is that it isn’t. Though its occurrence was spotty throughout the area, there was no missing it when it was there. The water would appear thick and heavy with the toxic mess






Monday, May 28th, we motor to Teakerne Arm to view the waterfall, Cassel Cascade. Bill backs the boat down the short deep channel right below the waterfall. It’s just like pictures you see of boats and waterfalls in this area!

We hike above the waterfalls to a lake where Judy decides to try the rope pull down to the lake. It’s a bit too cold for a dip just yet, but we can see what a popular and crowded place this would be in the summer.

The next day as we motor into a secluded cove we notice a Bald Eagle perched regally on top of a pine tree near the shore. Quietly we sit on deck watching him watching us. We are silenced by his presence and amazed that he stays with us all thru lunch. Shortly before we raise anchor, he spreads his wings and glides off. It is truly incredible. I’m amazed at the dark wing spread. Never had any of us been that close to such a creature.

Wednesday, May 30th, is our last day in Desolation Sound. We lunch in a cove off Susan Islets. It’s sunny and almost hot.. We’re into shorts and T-shirts. It’s warm enough that Bill, Judy and Warner decide it’s time to go for a swim. Not me. It’s got to be a lot warmer in that water for me. They may have called it a swim, but, from my viewpoint, it was a quick jump in followed by an explosive bellow of shock and an even quicker exit. “Refreshing”, they exclaimed. “Heart stopping”, I thought. Bill decides it’s a good time to test the weights he brought to use with his wet suit when/if he needs to check something out under the boat. The first time he tested the suit was in The Channel Islands on our sail north from San Diego to Seattle. He had forgotten about weights and bobbing around like a cork wasn’t going to get him under the boat or anywhere. With his new weights, he could now successfully check under the boat.

That evening we anchored in Prideaux Haven, a very popular anchorage because of the spectacular views. In the summer, boats are crowded in here many stern-tied to shore or rafted together. We have the place almost to ourselves. The view is fantastic. We eat dinner on deck and linger there enjoying the evening until 10:00 – in shirt sleeves and shorts. How fortunate can you be?






Judy and Warner – May 30, 2007
10:00 pm – Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound, British Columbia, Canada

Thursday, May 31st, we motor out of Desolation Sound and across to Campbell River. Again, the weather is beautiful. We are all hoping for another whale spotting, but, though that did not happen, we are treated to the sight of several Dali Porpoises leaping thru the water as they sped past the boat. Campbell River proves to be a well-appointed fishing and tourist town. The facilities for private boaters are great with a large grocery store conveniently located near the docks. There is even a Starbucks. Back to civilization we are! It’s been great having Judy and Warner with us on this first leg. With sadness we’ll say good bye to them tomorrow, but, with eagerness, tomorrow we will press on north to Alaska.

I’m closing this entry with a few pictures of the beauty of this area. Our timing here was beyond opportune. We were here before the season started and had the waters practically to ourselves. The weather was absolutely perfect. What more could one ask for?






Snow covered fortresses in the distance

The Helmswomen

An afternoon anchorage. (For Telluride folks: views from the Valley Floor if Global Warming continues)

"How to Catch Crabs"

“How to Catch Crabs” – That’s the title of the latest book I’ve bought along with another one called “103 Fishing Secrets”. I’m determined that we are going to fish for salmon and trap crabs. Bill is not so enthusiastic. In fact, he’s downright negative, but I’m going ahead. In Sidney, I dragged him into a store to purchase a collapsible crab trap. As it’s not a small thing, I wanted to make sure he at least approved that it could go on the boat even if he really didn’t approve the need or the use of it. I found out that the crab trap was only one part of the whole set up. We also needed a bait trap, a floating marker and about 100’ of sinkable line. I was told we were lucky this trap came with a weight or we’d have to buy that too. I’m now $100.00 into this venture, but all that remains to purchase is a license. Bill’s too impatient to go with me to the shop where I can get a license, but that can be done in Victoria. At least, I have the trap. I’m not too sure how to use it or where and when to use it, but at least I have it.

In Victoria, I finally find out where to buy a license. None of this “finding of fishing information” is coming easily. When I go to the store, I’m told that all I need is one license. That’s a relief. One license will cover fishing, crabbing and digging for sea life. That sounds good to me, but it will be $6.35 more to be able to keep the salmon I catch. Now why else would anyone want to fish? Fishing, crabbing -- it’s all about food to me; putting dinner on the table. So, I tell the nice young man that, of course, I want to be able to keep my salmon and how much will the total be? $117 !!!, but it’s good for a year. That’s nice. Can I get a refund if I only need it for 4 ½ months? Of course not. So now I’m $217 into this venture without a salmon or crab in sight, and I’m still not sure how to use any of the equipment. I now am told that I’m at a fly fishing store, and they don’t know anything about my type of fishing, but they know where I can go. Off I go to a store with the improbable name of “Iron Works” for fishing gear. Of course, the guy I need to talk to is out to lunch. I hang around looking at these impossible looking fishing gadgets until he returns. He doesn’t appear to know much more than I or I’m suspecting he just doesn’t want to let me in on trade secrets, but he does sell me the two books plus some crazy looking bright metal things with nasty hooks on the end. I still don’t know much more than when I started out the day except that I’m now $267 into this and still don’t know how to get the food on the table. I figure Bill and I could have about 2+ crab dinners with wine at a nice restaurant overlooking the boats in the harbor, and life would be much easier, less complicated and marital bliss would continue.

It’s now the end of the day, and I’m not much further along in my quest for equipment and enlightenment. So, my next brainstorm is to ask the 3 guys on the small fish boat at the dock ahead of us if they wouldn’t help a damsel in need. They, of course, are flattered to be asked, and I get my first chuckle of the day watching the three of them trying to give me a life time’s lesson in fishing for salmon. They do rig up a line for me. It starts with a weight (8 – 10 oz.) which I don’t have as the man in “Iron Works” didn’t think of, know about or want to clue me in about. Then about 3’ of line before a “flasher” is attached. Don’t have that either because of the same reasons above. Then another 3-4’ of line before something called a “spoon” is attached and then the hook at the very end. I am now told that there are different weights of weights, different flashy flashers and same applies to the spoons. Each man has his own opinion about which works best and/or which the fish (the fish?) like best, all of which I dutifully write down in my little book. Meanwhile, I’m also looking at this contraption wondering if they’re just trying to put one over on me for a good laugh later that evening, or, if they are telling me the Gospel truth, I’m now sure that salmon are really, really dumb. All these shiny metal gadgets to attract the fish’s interest, but nary a worm or bit of fish food in sight? Why would any living body even think of putting that thing in its mouth? The fish are making me feel good. I may have spent $267 with nothing to show, but at least I don’t go chasing after shiny objects ending up with a hook down my throat and on somebody’s dinner plate. The guys take pity on me and give me the contraption they’ve rigged up. Only they don’t have a spare weight for me, but assure me that that can be purchased at the fuel dock on the way out of the harbor tomorrow. Sure --- and Bill’s going to stop at that fuel dock on the way out of the harbor! We’re already fueled and ready to go. Maybe I can buy one somewhere in Desolation Sound. If not, I just better break even on the crabs. Eighteen, just a mere 18, ought to do it.

Canoe Cove (Sidney) to Victoria, BC

After a week of getting the boat ready, we left Canoe Cove in Sidney, BC on Tuesday, May 15th and, after clearing US customs in Friday Harbor, enjoyed a few days in the San Juan Islands. The photo is of Echo Bay on Sucia Island. Normally a popular anchorage in the summer months, you can see we were pretty much alone. Sucia Island is really a group of several small islands clumped together as a Marine State Park. There are camp/picnic sites with barbecues and trails cut thru the island. Vegetation is so dense that without the trails, the island would be impassible. We took a hike to Ewing Bay and sat for a while (honest .. Bill did sit for a while) watching the wild life -- a family of Canadian Geese, sea otters at play in the bay, clams spitting water as the tide receded. We would not have seen those playful otters if we hadn't just sat and absorbed the quiet.

Spring flowers abound along the trails. Some appear to be the same as the wild flowers in the Telluride area. I'm sure I identified Indian Paintbrush. So, now I'm going to buy a flower book in Victoria and add identifying Pacific Coast flowers to my activities!

The trees are Madrona Trees. They seem to start out as bushy things and grow up into the most interesting gnarly trees. Eventually the bark peels off leaving a velvet smooth trunk.

Gnarly old Madrona Tree by the water's

edge.

Wow - did we have a fantastic sail from Roche Harbor to Victoria. Winds kept climbing. First one reef, then the second. We streamed down the Strait of Juan de Fuca into Victoria Harbor, cleared Canadian customs and then tucked into our slip. Three events had the place hopping. The most important was a long weekend due to Victoria Day. Bands were playing, sidewalk performers were putting on their shows, people were everywhere. It was exciting. The other event was some kind of motor boat gathering which had most of the slips below the Empress Hotel reserved and, of course, wasn't of any interest to us. The third was the arrival or positioning of sailboats for the Swiftsure Race this Saturday. Now that's been interesting -- watching the different racing boats and crews come into harbor. There are even several J Boats of various sizes. The Swiftsure is an overnight race. The boats will leave here on Saturday, sail down the Strait to the ocean and back again to Victoria. I kind of wish we were staying here to watch the event, but we have our own adventure ahead.

Tomorrow, Thursday, May 23rd, Judy Hall and Warner Paige arrive to sail the first leg of the trip with us. Victoria to Desolation Sound and then to Campbell River. We're cleaned up and pretty well set - or at least as set as one ever gets on a boat. Tomorrow we provision, and Friday we leave. Sounds so easy and simple.

Cruising spring/summer 2007

This season's cruise on Avante will take us from Victoria, Canada to Juneau, Alaska and back. It's a trip of approximately 2200 nm through magnificent areas of pristine wilderness. We spent last winter doing research on the area, studying charts and taking a series of Red Cross courses to help us handle those medical emergencies we hope never to have. We feel prepared, excited and eager to launch.

For those who may not recall, Avante is a 52' performance cruiser made by J Boat. Officially, she's called a J/160. We bought Avante in April 2006. She was then in San Diego. Last July 2006, we sailed her from San Diego to Seattle. We then returned to Telluride to enjoy the rest of the summer there, and, in the early fall, we headed back to the Pacific Northwest for 6 weeks of sailing through the San Juan and Gulf Islands. In total, we cruised almost 2500 nm in 2006. Avante wintered on the hard in British Columbia while we enjoyed the winter in Telluride.

Our 10-year goal is to sail as much of the world as we are interested in doing. We will do this in segments, sailing for a while, then leaving the boat in various ports while we return to our other lives. This season our cruise to Alaska should last from late May till early August.

On Sunday, May 6th, we left Telluride, Colorado, dropping Jake off at "doggy summer camp". We drove north to Seattle and had time for dinner with Telluride friends, Marilyn and Tom Fleming. Tuesday morning we caught the ferry to Sidney on Vancouver Island. Of course, the first thing we did was drive to Canoe Cove Marina to check out Avante. She spent the winter cradled on land. Her new bottom paint job looks great, but, to our dismay, many of the smaller projects the yard was supposed to do had not been done. Dealing with boat repairs is teaching Bill a deeper understanding of the word "patience". Some of our list will be done before we set sail this Monday. Some will get done next winter.

Avante weathered the winter well. It does need a good wash down and polish. Bill seems to have forgotten that "polish, oil and wax" were descriptive words we agreed were not going into my boat vocabulary. We'll see. I feel there's enough for me to get cleaned, organized and provisioned below decks without having time to worry about above decks for now. The boat is to go back in the water this Friday. Saturday and Sunday are to be work days with plans to set sail on Monday.